A satirical illustration of an 18th-century ballroom, depicting guests affected by 'fashionable diseases'.

Vanity Fair: How 'Fashionable Diseases' Shaped 18th Century Identity

Lena Voss in Culture & Society August 2025 • 4 min read.

"Unraveling the tangled threads of fashion, capitalism, and gender in the long eighteenth century reveals surprising insights into identity and health."

In the glittering salons and bustling streets of 18th-century Europe, a curious phenomenon took hold: 'fashionable diseases.' More than just medical conditions, these illnesses became badges of honor, subtly communicating status, wealth, and belonging to a certain social sphere. But how did ailments become aspirational? And what did this trend reveal about the era's deeper anxieties?

Clark Lawlor's research, originally published in Literature and Medicine, Volume 35, delves into this intriguing intersection of health, economics, and identity. By examining period literature, medical texts, and social commentary, Lawlor uncovers the complex ways in which 'fashionable diseases' were constructed, marketed, and consumed.

Join us as we unpack Lawlor's insights, exploring how gender roles, the rise of capitalism, and the burgeoning medical marketplace contributed to this unique cultural moment. We'll also consider the satirical lens through which these trends were often viewed, and how these historical perceptions continue to resonate in our modern understanding of health and beauty.

The Rise of the 'Fashionable': How Did Illnesses Become Status Symbols?

A satirical illustration of an 18th-century ballroom, depicting guests affected by 'fashionable diseases'.

The 18th century witnessed a seismic shift in how individuals perceived themselves and their place in society. Traditional markers of identity, such as birthright and land ownership, began to wane in importance as a new economic order emerged. This new order was fueled by credit, capital, and the ever-accelerating cycles of consumption.

In this whirlwind of change, fashion emerged as a powerful force. More than just clothing, fashion became a primary means of expressing individual identity and signaling social status. As Paul Keen notes, this era gave rise to an 'extraordinary modernity,' where the exchange systems of credit and capital intertwined with a more free-floating individual subjectivity. Fashion, in essence, became the 'primary symbol of that ever-changing whirl of commodity and consumption'.

Here's how fashion and disease became intertwined:

Medical Markets as Fashion: Medical treatments and products were increasingly viewed as subsets of fashion. Just as clothing styles changed with the seasons, so too did the preferred remedies and diagnostic labels.
Fashion and Identity: Fashion offered a way to both liberate and destabilize personal identity. Individuals could express their uniqueness through their choices, but they also faced the pressure of keeping up with the latest trends.
The anxieties of Excess: The discourse surrounding luxury, closely tied to fashion, fueled anxieties about unregulated desires and the erosion of traditional social boundaries.

As various cultural historians have observed, fashion is an ambiguous symbol of—and an actual process constituting—modern capitalism. Like capitalism, “Fashion is never satisfied.” Like capitalism, voracious fashion posed challenges for modern concepts of identity and for the role of women as well as men.

The Enduring Legacy of 'Fashionable Diseases'

While powdered wigs and elaborate fainting couches may be relics of the past, the underlying dynamics of 'fashionable diseases' continue to resonate today. The desire to signal status, the anxieties surrounding health and beauty, and the influence of consumer culture remain powerful forces shaping our perceptions and behaviors. By understanding the historical context of these trends, we can gain a more critical perspective on the ways in which health, identity, and society intersect in our own time.

About this Article -

This article was crafted using a human-AI hybrid and collaborative approach. AI assisted our team with initial drafting, research insights, identifying key questions, and image generation. Our human editors guided topic selection, defined the angle, structured the content, ensured factual accuracy and relevance, refined the tone, and conducted thorough editing to deliver helpful, high-quality information.See our About page for more information.

This article is based on research published under:

DOI-LINK: 10.1353/lm.2017.0017, Alternate LINK

Title: "The History Of Half The Sex": Fashionable Disease, Capitalism, And Gender In The Long Eighteenth Century

Subject: Literature and Literary Theory

Journal: Literature and Medicine

Publisher: Project Muse

Authors: Clark Lawlor

Published: 2017-01-01

Everything You Need To Know

What exactly were 'fashionable diseases' and what did they signify in the 18th century?

The term 'fashionable diseases' refers to illnesses that became status symbols in the 18th century. These were more than just medical conditions; they were seen as indicators of wealth, social standing, and belonging to a certain elite circle. The adoption of these 'fashionable diseases' reflected deeper societal anxieties regarding wealth, gender roles, and the growth of consumerism during that period.

How did fashion become intertwined with diseases and social status during the 18th century?

In the 18th century, traditional markers of identity, like birthright and land ownership, began to lose significance as a new economic order emerged. Fashion became a powerful means of expressing individual identity and signaling social status. Medical treatments and products were increasingly viewed as subsets of fashion, similar to how clothing styles changed with the seasons. This connection between fashion and identity allowed individuals to express their uniqueness but also created pressure to keep up with the latest trends, linking illness to status.

What insights does Clark Lawlor's research provide regarding 'fashionable diseases'?

Clark Lawlor's research, originally published in Literature and Medicine, Volume 35, explores the intersection of health, economics, and identity in the 18th century, specifically focusing on 'fashionable diseases'. Lawlor's work examines how these illnesses were constructed, marketed, and consumed by analyzing period literature, medical texts, and social commentary. Lawlor's insights help in understanding how gender roles, the rise of capitalism, and the burgeoning medical marketplace contributed to this unique cultural phenomenon.

What anxieties did the rise of 'fashionable diseases' reflect during the 18th century?

The rise of 'fashionable diseases' reflected anxieties about unregulated desires and the erosion of traditional social boundaries. The discourse surrounding luxury, closely tied to fashion, fueled these anxieties. This created challenges for modern concepts of identity and for the role of women as well as men, in society. The article highlights how fashion, like capitalism, is never satisfied, leading to a continuous pursuit of new trends and status symbols.

Do the dynamics of 'fashionable diseases' still have relevance today?

While practices like wearing powdered wigs and using fainting couches are no longer common, the underlying dynamics of 'fashionable diseases' continue to resonate today. The desire to signal status through material possessions, the anxieties surrounding health and beauty standards, and the pervasive influence of consumer culture remain powerful forces shaping our perceptions and behaviors. Understanding the historical context of these trends allows for a more critical perspective on how health, identity, and society intersect in our modern world.